Hera Beauty… Sparkle, Curl, Wink!

Today’s Lesson: False Eyelashes

Over the last couple days, I’ve discussed different techniques and tricks with mascara, mascara primer, fibers, and colors.  Although mascara is the easiest way to accentuate the eyes, one of my personal favorite lash enhancements is the false eyelash.

According to most sources, the first false eyelash was believed to have been created and used almost a century ago during a movie production.  However, false lashes didn’t become a beauty staple until decades later, around the 1960’s.  False lashes come in many different styles, colors, and materials.  Most are made using sterilized human hair, and tied or attached to a thin plastic band for “strip lashes”, or tied together with a knot to create small clusters or “individual” lashes.  Other materials used, like feathers or synthetic hair, are used to create trend lashes for dramatic shapes and colors.

Strip lashes are the most common form of lashes, giving a uniform look across the entire lash line.  Each strip lash is attached to the base of the lashes using a temporary glue specially formulated for use on the eye.  This glue is commonly found in a white color that dries clear, and is now readily available in a dark grey color that dries to black.    Strip lashes now come in a vast variety of styles and sizes for every occasion, look, or eye shape.  Many lashes are also available with a variety of accents as well, such as rhinestones, glitter, and shiny, metallic strands.

When choosing a false lash style, first determine the look you are trying to achieve.  As a general rule, the longer and heavier the style, the more dramatic the lash will look on the eye.  Once the lash is applied to the eye, the unfamiliar wearer may find that strip lashes feel heavy or seem obstructive on the eye, but with time, will get used to the feeling.  The fuller and longer the lash, the longer it will take to get used to.

Individual lashes are another form of false lashes that give the user more control over the final look, or to fill in gaps between natural lashes.  I have found that individual lashes are easier to wear for ladies with sensitive eyes or have a hard time adapting to the feel of a strip lash.  Individual lashes often come with a clear lash glue and the directions will instruct to attach the knot of the lash to the base of the lash line without touching the skin.  However, I tend to disregard the instructions, and the specialty glue, and opt for the same glue used with strip lashes and anchor the individual lashes to the baseline as well.  These lashes also come in several different sizes and colors.

With either type of lash, I always recommend applying the false lash as one of the last steps- after eyeshadow application but before mascara.  Unless you have super, super, straight lashes, I don’t recommend curling your lashes prior to the application of the false lashes, or if you must, only curling your lashes lightly.  Generally all false lashes come pre-curled.  There is much debate about the use of eyeliner prior or after the application of lashes- I prefer to apply liner before the application of the lashes, and if needed, adding more after.

Try these tips for application of strip lashes:

1. Apply eyeshadow & eyeliner to the eyes.  Do not apply mascara.
2. Look at the false lashes and notice that they taper with longer hairs on the outer edge  becoming shorter towards the inner edge.  Using a pair of tweezers grasp the end of the plastic strip at the outer edge.  Gently peel the strip from the plastic base.
3. If needed, trim the lashes to fit your eyes, starting at the outer end with the longer lashes. Most lashes will need trimming to fit properly and often the plastic band will extend past the lashes.  If you trim the excess band from both ends, the lashes will feel more comfortable and will be less likely to poke and irritate.
4. Once you have trimmed the lashes, gently hold both ends of the lashes, and bend or roll the band to create a natural curve.  Do not crease the band!  If the lashes are sturdy and if you feel comfortable doing so, I like to run the band over the edge of a fingernail to create a  curve.  (Think of curling a ribbon on the edge of a sissors or creating a bend in hair using a flat iron.  Same action, just very carefully)
5. Repeat steps 2 – 4 on the other false lash.
6. Pick up one lash with the tweezers, at the inner end with the shorter lashes, by the lashes.  The tweezer prongs should be near the base of the lash, without touching the band.  Apply a thin strip of glue to the entire band, leaving a little extra on each end of the band to ensure the ends of the strip will hold tight.  Let glue dry on the band for 10-20 seconds.
7. Hold the longer lashes with your fingers.  You should now be holding the short lashes with the tweezers and the long lashes between your thumb and index finger.  (If the idea of sharp objects near your eyes freaks you out, use a rounded tipped tweezer.)
8. Bring the lash to your eye with the shorter lashes on the inside, long lashes out.  If possible, close the eye you are applying the lash to and with the eye closed, raise the eyebrow to maximize the stretching of the eyelid.  Anchor one end of the false lash and adjust the lash as needed until it adheres to the entire base of the lashes.  Using the back end of the tweezers, press the strip of the false lashes so it rests right on top of your own lashes at the base.
9. Keep eye closed for a minute or two until the glue sets.  If you have any rampant glue blobs, use a cotton swab to gently remove them.
10. Once the glue sets, gently open the eye.  If the glue has seeped onto the natural lashes, the upper and lower lids can feel stuck together.  If this happens, gently hold under the eye with a finger while slowly opening the eye.  Hold the lashes gently and try to release any areas that are stuck together with a cotton swab.  If the ends of the lash start to release, I like to add a drop of glue to the end of a cotton swab (one with tightly wound cotton fibers.  If you have a fuzzy Q-tip, cut the cotton end off one side and add a drop of glue to the plastic/paper wand) and carefully add a little glue to the end that has come loose.  Press the end to the base of the lash, and gently add pressure to the entire false lash without touching the skin.  (It should look and feel like you are pressing the lash into the lash line.
11. Repeat steps 6 – 10 with the other false lash.
12. Once both lashes have been applied and feel secure, take a look at your work.  If it looks secure and feels comfortable, feel free to add a little mascara at this time.  Use the mascara as you normally would, keeping in mind that you are trying to blend your natural lashes and false lashes together.  Too much mascara could look over-dramatic.
13. If you need to add more eyeliner, do so at this time but be careful not to pull up a end.

Tips for applying individual lashes:

1. Apply eyeshadow & eyeliner to the eyes.  Do not apply mascara.
2. Apply a large drop of glue on a piece of plastic or foil.  I often like to use an empty well on the individual eyelash tray.
3. Using a tweezer, gently pick up one of the clusters near the base, holding onto as many lashes as possible.  If you try to pluck a cluster from the tray using only a single hair, it will probably cause the hair to break or become unruly and the lash cluster will be ruined.
4. Dip the end of the lash into the glue blob and let set for 5-10 seconds.
5. With the eye closed, and starting from the outer corner of the eye, apply the individual lash, placing the base of the lash to the lash line.  I try to anchor the false lash between the natural lashes so it blends together well.
6. Repeat steps 3 – 5 until all sparse areas are filled or the look you desire is completed.
7. Keep eye closed for a minute or two until the glue sets.  If you have any rampant glue blobs, use a cotton swab to gently remove them.
8. Once the glue sets, gently open the eye.  If the glue has seeped onto the natural lashes, the upper and lower lids can feel stuck together.  If this happens, gently hold under the eye with a finger while slowly opening the eye.  Hold the lashes gently and try to release any areas that are stuck together with a cotton swab.  If any lashes come loose, dip end into the glue and reapply.
9. Repeat steps 3 – 8 on the other eye.
10. Once all lashes have been applied and feel secure, take a look at your work.  If it looks secure and feels comfortable, feel free to add a little mascara at this time.  Use the mascara as you normally would, keeping in mind that you are trying to blend your natural lashes and false lashes together.  Too much mascara could look over-dramatic.
11. If you need to add more eyeliner, do so at this time but be careful not to pull up a end.

False lashes can really add a little sexy to any outfit.  The key to the perfect false eyelash application is practice, practice, practice!  At the end of the evening, use any makeup remover that can remove waterproof makeup to dissolve the glue and the lashes should slide right off.  For individual lashes, I simply throw them away at the end of an evening.  If you would like to save your strips or individual lashes, carefully place them back in their tray after removing all traces of makeup, glue, and oily remover residue.

Have fun, be fabulous!